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Perhaps the most
interesting and dynamic topic in digital photography is printing,
because the quality of the printed image has improved dramatically in
just the last few years. Skip to the bottom line - the biggest problem
in printing, until about a year ago, was that colors fade. Color prints,
no matter how good they looked originally looked like a pizza in about a
year. That problem has been solved, and it opens digital photography to
those who take photography seriously, as an art form.
But let's back up and discuss the first
problem first - how to make a good looking photographic print. The
answer is simple, use a good quality ink-jet printer with ink and paper
recommended by the manufacturer. Laser printers work too, but the result
always looks like it was printed on a laser printer.
It appears that Epson has lapped the field,
and is now far ahead in the quality-permanence department. They offer
two kinds of inks - dye and pigment. Pigment inks are the longer
lasting, but the new dye inks are better than they used to be. (I do not
necessarily recommend one brand over another, and I have a three-year
old Hewlett-Packard that still works just fine, but I do not use it when
I want the best quality.)
Publish Your Photographs
Printers use the CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow,
Black) method of printing. Recall that when we talked about image
capture, we were using RGB (Red, Green, Blue). What is the difference?
It depends upon whether we are adding light or subtracting it. On a
display we are adding light. We have red, green, and blue phosphors that
glow. When all three are glowing at their brightest, their combined
output adds up to White, which is the sum of all colors.
When we put ink on paper, we are subtracting
light. The white light falls on the paper, and some of that light is
absorbed by the ink. What is not absorbed is then reflected. If we
subtract yellow from white light, we get its complement, blue. So what
we call blue ink is a substance that is subtracting yellow from white.
If we subtract cyan, magenta, and yellow from
white light we should get no light, in other words, black. However,
reality and theory are a little off at this point, and what we really
get is a dark, muddy brown. So we supplement the system with the
addition of a true black ink. Another area of contention is very light
colors. For this reason some of the high quality printers now come as
CcMmYK printers. The "C" stands for Cyan, and the "c" stands for a light
cyan. Same with "M" and "m" for magenta. Yellow is already a light
color, so no "y" is needed. These printers offer a better gradation of
tones.
Interestingly, the problem of light and
mid-tones applies to black and white photographs as well. For that
reason, some new printers now come with a "Gray" as well as a Black.
These are identified seven-color or "CcMmYKk" printers, and the results,
as they say, will knock your socks off. I don't have one of these -
yet.
Paper?
It makes a difference. Use the manufacturers'
recommendations. The final image is a marriage of ink and paper, and,
like any marriage that is expected to last, they should be compatible.
Ink-jet papers are coated, and you can get several weights and textures,
such as glossy, semi- gloss, matte, and watercolor. You can print on
uncoated papers as well, but quality suffers.
It should be noted that some printing
processes do not yield water resistant prints. The Epson prints, on
their best papers, are water-resistant and some others may be, but check
to be sure if it is important to you.
A few other issues in printing are paper size
and printing speed. There are always tradeoffs, of course. Not everyone
needs to print on 13 inch paper, and not every one needs 6 pages per
minute. Ink-jet printers are slow, so you will be trading speed for
quality all the time. Another issue is cost. The ink-jet printer
companies make most of their money on supplies, and in particular, on
ink cartridges. Yes, you can buy cartridges that have been refilled by
third party vendors, but since I never use them I am not the person to
recommend for or against them. There are some other printing methods
still in use. If you want high speed, low materials cost, and can suffer
slightly reduced quality, then a laser printer might be your best
choice, particularly if you are in the real estate business or some
other area where you want to print 100 or more copies of something.
There are also special purpose printers that are limited to 4 x 6
inches, for example. One older printer technology is dye-sublimation
which offers high quality, but is slow and expensive and disappearing
from the scene.
Displaying Photos on a Monitor
Another practical use for your photos is to
display them on the computer monitor or project them with a digital
projector. You can create a slide show that runs continuously, or you
can develop a presentation that is under the operator's control. Many
software packages will help you do this, but we cannot review them all.
Slide shows differ from printing in that a
smaller image file is needed to achieve maximum quality. The viewing
screen on a computer has only limited capability to render detail, so
one can get by with smaller files. For example, a typical monitor with
an 800 by 600 pixel screen presents an image containing 480,000 pixels. A
3-megapixel file, desirable for printing, contains six times as much
information as can be displayed effectively on the monitor.
For developing the presentation, Macintosh
owners with OS-X can use iPhoto, which is designed primarily for
managing a photo inventory, but has some editing capability and contains
a slide show feature. Another well-known package is Microsoft's Power
Point presentation software package that runs on either a PC or a Mac.
If you save your file on a CD, you will then be able to show your show
using any computer that has the program installed.
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And more about color:
The first rule in printing images is: "what you
get is not what you see." The colors that you see on the monitor,
represented in the RGB system, definitely will not appear equivalent on
paper, represented in the CMYK system, even though they are
theoretically equivalent. Professional printers deal with this issue on a
regular basis, which sets them apart from the rest of us
non-professionals.
Think of printing as firing a gun at a distant
target. You aim carefully, but the bullet hits somewhere off the mark.
You then adjust your aim, to fire at a point which is now, away from the
bulls-eye, in order to compensate. It is similar with printing. When
you see your print, you will want to adjust your image on the screen to
be different from what you want to see in the print, in order to
compensate for the amount by which you missed your target. This is true
when printing either color or black and white. I believe that getting a
good black and white print is the more difficult, because the viewer is
sub-consciously very discerning of subtle warm and cold tones in black
and white prints.
When you use your editing software, you may
want to change the color of a whole image, or perhaps a section of an
image. Your image-editing system will have a way of telling you what
color exists at any point on the screen. But you may have a problem in
interpreting what it says, because it uses an obscure way of
representing color. If you have the patience, read the following.
We said that the color of a pixel is
represented by some amount of Red, Green and Blue. Therefore, a
numerical representation of a color would give you a value for each of
these values. We allocate one byte of information for each of these
colors, so each value can range from a level of 0 to 255. If you open up
the color window on Photoshop Elements you might find a color listed as
something like:
Red 23
Green 208
Blue 255
You will also see this same information
expressed in hexadecimal form. The hexadecimal system uses sixteen
symbols to represent the sixteen values from 0 to 15. The six additional
symbols are A, B, C, D, E and F. The symbol for nine is '9', the symbol
for ten is 'A,' eleven 'B,' up to 'F' for the value of fifteen. The
decimal value 23, above, becomes 1 x 16 plus 7, or '17' in hexadecimal.
The value 208 becomes 'D0'and the value 255 become 'FF' So the same
color, above, represented in hexadecimal form becomes: "17D0FF"
Note that there is no delimiter between the
values for red, green, and blue. The color represented above has a lot
of green and blue, and a relative absence of Red, so it would appear as a
near-Cyan color.
A light Gray would have equal values for Red,
Green and Blue, for example: 'EEEEEE' A dark gray could be '363636'
A 'warm' gray, with a little less green (more magenta) might be '363336.'
We have mentioned two of the basic methods for
representing color, called RGB and CMYK. Another is HSL (Hue,
Saturation and Lightness), but that is an advanced topic, not to be
covered here.
And, in summary ...
In the four sections of this article we have
covered how to capture, store, edit, and publish your photographs. I
have mentioned the following products which represents my current
investment in a digital processing system. These are only representative
of what I, personally, have found useful for my own purposes, and they
by no means represent a complete list of all options that are available.
Camera: Olympus E-10 ,
4 megapixel. An excellent professional quality digital camera with
manual overrides on just about everything ($1300). Downside - it is
somewhat large and heavy for casual users. Also Supplementary flash
($400)
Scanners: (1) Film Scanner: Nikon CoolScan IV . Excellent 35mm scanner, yields images from negatives or positives of about 28 megabytes ($900); (2) Flatbed Scanner: HP ScanJet ADF. About three years old. Works fine. ($ 250 in today's market)
High Quality Printer: Epson 2000P for up to 13 x 19 inch paper, uses pigment inks for permanence. ($900)
Computer: Macintosh iBook with 20 G drive, CD-RW and 256 Meg of memory running OS-X ($1500)
Image Management Software: iPhoto (included with the operating system)
Image Editing Software: Photoshop Elements ($70)
Total investment: $5,320.
Your needs will not be the same as mine. My
goal is to be able to print and display high quality archival
photographs that are 11 x 14 inches and larger. If you are primarily
interested in preserving family and vacation photos, or if your work is
primarily for presentation on a computer monitor, digital photography is
still your best choice, but you will be able to get your system up and
running for less money. Have fun.
Richard Ten Dyke is a member of Danbury
Area Computer Society who has had a long interest in both photography
and computers. He started his photography career with a Leica IIIC in
1952, and his computer career working with an ERA 1103 in 1956. He
currently is retired from IBM and resides in Bedford, New York. You can
reach him at tendyke@bedfordny.com
Copyright (c) 2002 Richard P. Ten Dyke
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